What is an ingrown hair?

An ingrown hair develops when a cut or removed hair does not grow cleanly through the follicle opening.

Instead, the hair may:

• Curve back and re-enter the skin
• Grow sideways beneath the surface
• Become trapped under dead skin cells
• Retract below the skin after a very close shave

The skin may recognise the trapped hair as an irritant, causing inflammation around the follicle. The area can become raised, itchy, tender or occasionally pus-filled.

When multiple razor bumps repeatedly affect the beard and neck, the condition is known as pseudofolliculitis barbae, or PFB. It is primarily an inflammatory response to hairs growing back into the skin rather than a bacterial infection, although secondary infection can sometimes develop.

A 2023 review described pseudofolliculitis barbae as a chronic inflammatory condition that predominantly affects people with skin of colour. The authors concluded that effective management usually requires a combination of prevention and appropriate topical or procedural treatments. (PubMed)

Ingrown hairs can appear anywhere hair is shaved, waxed, threaded, plucked or epilated, including the:

• Beard and neck
• Underarms
• Bikini line
• Pubic area
• Legs
• Chest
• Back

Why are ingrown hairs more common in skin of colour?

Anyone can develop ingrown hairs, but the risk is higher in people with tightly curled or coarse hair.

After a curved hair is shaved, its shortened end may bend towards the skin as it grows. A close shave may also leave the hair tip beneath the skin's surface, making it easier for the hair to pierce the follicle wall or re-enter the surrounding skin.

The second concern is pigmentation.

Melanin-rich skin can be more susceptible to visible and persistent post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, or PIH. Inflammation from an ingrown hair may stimulate excess pigment production, leaving a flat dark mark after the active bump has healed.

These marks may appear:

• Light or dark brown
• Grey-brown
• Purple-brown
• Almost black on deeper skin tones

Brown pigmentation is often closer to the skin's surface. Grey or blue-grey colouring may suggest that some pigment is sitting deeper, where it can take longer to improve. Research on post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation explains that pigment in the upper skin often appears brown, while deeper dermal pigment can appear blue-grey and may persist for considerably longer. (PubMed Central (PMC))

Why do ingrown hairs leave dark marks?

The hair itself does not directly create the pigmentation. The dark mark develops in response to inflammation and injury.

The cycle usually looks like this:

Hair becomes trapped → inflammation develops → pigment production increases → a dark mark remains

Picking, squeezing or repeatedly shaving over the bump adds further injury. This can make the resulting pigmentation darker, wider and more persistent.

Preventing the next ingrown hair is therefore just as important as fading the mark left by the previous one.

How can you tell an ingrown hair from acne or folliculitis?

Ingrown hairs, acne and folliculitis can look similar, but their location and timing may provide useful clues.

A loop or tip of hair may sometimes be visible, but do not dig into the skin to find it. Breaking the skin increases the risk of infection, scarring and further pigmentation.

How can you prevent ingrown hairs when shaving?

Never dry shave

Warm water and shaving cream help soften the hair and reduce friction between the razor and the skin.

Shave towards the end of a shower or apply a warm compress first. Always use a lubricating shaving gel or cream.

The American Academy of Dermatology recommends softening the hair with warmth and moisture, applying a moisturising shaving cream and avoiding dry shaving. (American Academy of Dermatology)

Use a sharp, clean razor

A blunt blade may drag across the skin and require additional pressure, increasing irritation.

Rinse the razor between strokes and replace the blade regularly. The American Academy of Dermatology advises replacing a single-blade razor after approximately five to seven shaves. (American Academy of Dermatology)

Shave in the direction of hair growth

Hair may grow in different directions across the neck, underarms or bikini line.

Use short strokes and avoid repeatedly passing over the same area.

Do not stretch the skin

Stretching produces a closer shave. Once the skin is released, the cut hair may retract beneath the surface and grow inwards.

Avoid shaving too closely

A completely smooth finish is not always the best option for ingrown-hair-prone skin.

An electric trimmer that leaves a small amount of hair above the skin may reduce the chance of hairs becoming trapped.

Do not pick or squeeze

Avoid squeezing the bump, piercing it with a needle or pulling the trapped hair from its root.

Picking is one of the biggest causes of long-lasting hyperpigmentation in skin of colour because it adds further injury to an already inflamed follicle.

Can exfoliation help prevent ingrown hairs?

Controlled chemical exfoliation may help remove dead cells from around the follicle opening, reducing the build-up that can trap a growing hair.

However, stronger or more frequent exfoliation does not necessarily produce better results.

In pigmentation-prone skin, over-exfoliation can damage the skin barrier and create additional inflammation. This may lead to more dark marks rather than fewer.

Do not apply exfoliating products to broken, freshly shaved or actively inflamed skin.

What body routine does Dr Vanita recommend?

This routine is designed for non-facial body areas, including the legs, underarms and bikini line.

Step 1: Exfoliate one to two times per week

Apply the Body Smoothing Exfoliator to clean, dry skin.

Leave it on for one hour before showering, then wash it away.

Its blend of lactic acid, salicylic acid and gluconolactone helps to:

• Lift dead skin cells
• Smooth rough texture
• Reduce follicular build-up
• Help prevent hairs from becoming trapped

Do not use it more than twice per week or apply it to broken, irritated or freshly shaved skin.

The product is designed for non-facial body skin and should not be used on sensitive, damaged or eczema-prone skin.

Step 2: Cleanse during every shower

Wash the area with the Deep Cleansing Body Wash during every shower.

Massage it gently over damp skin and rinse thoroughly. There is no need to use a rough cloth, body brush or exfoliating glove.

Unlike a standard body wash, it is designed to cleanse while supporting smoother and brighter-looking body skin.

Step 3: Brighten after every shower

After showering, gently pat the skin so it remains slightly damp.

Apply the Body Brightening Oil to support the appearance of dark marks while nourishing the skin barrier.

The formula contains brightening antioxidants and barrier-supporting oils. Applying it to slightly damp skin also helps seal in moisture.

The product directions advise applying the oil every day or after every shower.

How long does it take to see results?

Active ingrown hairs and the dark marks they leave behind do not necessarily improve at the same speed.

With consistent use, many people may begin noticing smoother, brighter-looking skin within approximately four to eight weeks, although stubborn pigmentation can take longer.

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation may take several months to fade, particularly when the pigment is deeper or the area continues to experience shaving, friction and inflammation.

Do not increase the frequency of exfoliation because the pigmentation is fading slowly.

Consistency beats intensity.

Can Nd:YAG laser help recurring ingrown hairs?

For frequently recurring ingrown hairs, long-pulsed 1064 nm Nd:YAG laser hair reduction may be a useful longer-term option for deeper skin tones.

By reducing the amount and thickness of the hair, laser treatment can reduce the number of hairs available to curve back into the skin.

A study involving 37 patients with Fitzpatrick skin types IV, V and VI found that treated areas had substantially fewer pseudofolliculitis papules than untreated control areas after 90 days. The authors concluded that long-pulsed Nd:YAG laser may be a useful option for reducing hair and subsequent papule formation. (PubMed)

However, laser treatment is not risk-free.

Incorrect devices or settings can cause:

• Burns
• Blistering
• Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
• Hypopigmentation
• Uneven results

Choose a qualified practitioner who regularly treats deeper skin tones. Ask which device and wavelength will be used and request a test patch before treating a larger area.

Laser should be described as hair reduction, not guaranteed permanent hair removal.

Which mistakes make pigmentation worse?

Picking or squeezing

This creates additional inflammation and increases the risk of infection, scarring and darker pigmentation.

Dry shaving

Shaving without water or lubrication increases friction and irritation.

Shaving against hair growth

This can cut the hair too closely and increase the chance of it growing back into the skin.

Using physical scrubs

Grainy scrubs, abrasive gloves and rough brushes can scratch inflamed follicles and worsen pigmentation.

Applying acids immediately after shaving

Freshly shaved skin may already be irritated. Applying exfoliating acids immediately afterwards can intensify the reaction.

Layering too many active ingredients

Combining multiple acids, scrubs and retinoids does not guarantee faster results. Irritation may create more of the pigmentation you are trying to treat.

Treating only the dark mark

The pigmentation is a consequence of inflammation. Unless the ingrown hairs and hair-removal trigger are addressed, new marks will continue to form.

When should you consult a doctor?

Seek professional advice when:

• The bumps are increasingly painful, hot or swollen
• There is recurring or spreading pus
• The area is developing raised or keloid scars
• The pigmentation is rapidly worsening
• Bumps continue despite changing your shaving technique
• You are unsure whether the concern is acne, folliculitis or ingrown hairs
• A product causes persistent burning, swelling or blistering
• You are considering prescription treatment or laser hair reduction

Frequently asked questions

Final takeaway

The most effective approach is to prevent new ingrown hairs and reduce inflammation while gradually treating the dark marks already present.

Use a sharp, clean razor, never dry shave and avoid cutting the hair excessively close. Do not pick, squeeze or dig out trapped hairs.

For body areas, Dr Vanita recommends:

1. Body Smoothing Exfoliator one to two times weekly
2. Deep Cleansing Body Wash during every shower
3. Body Brightening Oil on slightly damp skin after showering

The aim is not to remove pigmentation as aggressively as possible. It is to stop the repeated cycle of trapped hair, inflammation and dark marks without causing another round of irritation.